This article combines three of our favorite vegan-related things: cookbook queen Isa Chandra Moskowitz, phenomenal vegan cuisine, and writer/thinker extraordinaire Piper Hoffman. Today, Piper gives us a review of Isa’s newly opened vegan restaurant, Modern Love. Don’t miss Piper’s mouthwatering photos at the bottom of the article!
Review of Modern Love, Isa Chandra Moskowitz’s New Vegan Restaurant in Omaha, NE
by Piper Hoffman
Superstar cookbook author Isa Chandra Moskowitz has planted a vegan flag in the midst of beef country. The setting of her first restaurant, Modern Love, is two cute, colorful rooms in Omaha, Nebraska. She describes her offerings as “swanky vegan comfort food.”
I had dinner there two nights in a row along with my vegan husband and three omnivorous locals, one of whom now counts Modern Love as his favorite restaurant. Some of the reasons:
Sharers & Starters
Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms: panko-fried blossoms stuffed with edamame puree, zucchini slaw, grilled summer squashes. These were a big hit at our table. The breading is crispy, the stuffing is a little sour, and the combination is earthy and delicious.
Jalapeno Corn Fritters: tomato-basil jam, arugula, pea tendrils. These were sweet with a spicy finish – too spicy for some.
Quinoa Caesar: romaine, arugula, tempeh croutons, smoked eggplant bacon, toasted pine nuts, tahini-caper dressing, avocado. A generous helping of avocado and yummy tempeh croutons were the highlights here.
Modern Nicoise: chickpea salad, devilled potatoes, grilled green beans, heirloom tomatoes, olives, greens, balsamic vinaigrette. It was proclaimed “very, very good”; the tomatoes were “the sweetest ever” and the salad was filling, but beware: our taster couldn’t eat the green beans because they were too spicy.
Seitan Marsala: root veg mash, wild mushrooms, braised leek, fresh herbs, microgreens. The winning entrée. The seitan was tender, the sauce hearty. Some of us had it both nights.
Polenta Romesco: grilled poppyseed polenta, roasted red pepper stew with chickpeas and potatoes, roasted brussels sprouts. Reactions ranged from “I’m a big fan” to “the brussels sprouts are too spicy.”
Mac & Shews: creamy cashew cheese, pecan-crusted tofu, BBQ cauliflower, braised kale, spiced pecans. The pecan-crusted tofu stole the show, but the whole combo was good.
Chilled Corn Chowder: Creamy and tasty, with a spicy bite at the end. The chowder was served with a sprinkling of pretty edible flowers on top.
Peach Pieand Apple Berry Pie were both good. They came with Moskowitz’s handmade cashew vanilla ice cream.
And the best for last:
Raspberry Cheesecake: A couple people ordered this the first night. Every single one of us ordered it the second.
Moskowitz says most of her guests aren’t vegan. She is spreading the good word, one helping of non-dairy cheesecake at a time.
Contact Information: ModernLoveOmaha.com. 1319 South 50th St., Omaha NE. (402) 614-6481.